7 min di lettura

How to check the weather before a Berlengas trip

The single biggest factor in whether your island day happens at all: three numbers, the morning fog and the tide.

The Berlengas sit ten kilometres out in the open Atlantic, and the only way there is a 20 to 45-minute boat crossing across water that is exposed to every swell rolling in from the west. More island trips are ruined by weather than by anything else, and operators cancel same-day when the sea is too rough. Ten minutes reading a forecast the evening before, and again the morning of, is the difference between a perfect day and a wasted drive to Peniche.

The three numbers that decide the crossing

  • Wave height (swell). The one that matters most. Under about 1 metre is smooth; 1 to 1.5 m is a lively but normal crossing; above roughly 2 to 2.5 m, trips are often cancelled and the smaller speedboats stop first.
  • Wind speed. Comfortable under about 15 knots. From 20 knots the ride gets bumpy and spray-soaked; strong wind also whips up the swell that actually stops the boats.
  • Wind direction. In summer the prevailing wind is the nortada, from the north or north-west. It usually builds through the afternoon, so a morning crossing is usually calmer than a late one, as long as the morning fog has lifted (see below).
SmoothLivelyOften cancelled
Wave heightUnder 1 m1 to 1.5 mOver 2 to 2.5 m
WindUnder 15 kn15 to 20 knOver 20 kn
Rough guide for the crossing. The small speedboats stop first.
08h10h12h14h16h
Wind (kn)78111518
Gusts (kn)1012152024
Wave height (m)0.60.70.91.41.9
Wave period (s)889910
An example day, the way a forecast such as Windguru lays it out. Read two rows: wind and wave height. Calm in the morning, the nortada building after lunch.

Morning fog

Summer mornings in Peniche often start in thick sea fog. It can delay the boats and it hides the island, and some days it only clears around midday. Locals sum it up in one line:

“Ao meio-dia, ou carrega ou alivia.”

At midday it either closes in or clears.

So early is not always best. On a foggy morning a late-morning boat often gets both: the fog gone and the nortada not yet up. Check visibility on the forecast and look out of the window before you drive.

The tide, for what you actually want to do

Once you are there, the tide shapes the day. The boat tours that thread the Furado Grande tunnel and the sea caves need enough water to pass and calm-enough conditions inside, so they run best around higher, slacker water. Snorkelling and the clearest water over the Carreiro do Mosteiro tend to be better near slack tide, when there is least current stirring up sand. If a specific cave or cove is your reason for going, check the tide table for Peniche and match your boat time to it.

Best for the cavesHigh tideLow tideTime of day →
On a tide table such as Tábua de Marés, find the high and low times: the cave tours want water, so aim for the hours around high tide.

The tools we use

PenicheBerlengaAbout 10 kmAtlantic swellN
On a map such as Windy, turn on the waves layer: a big swell rolling in from the west or north-west is what stops the crossing.

Forecasts change, check twice

Offshore forecasts for a small exposed island shift a lot, sometimes completely from one day to the next. Treat anything more than three days out as a rough hint, check properly the evening before, and check again the morning of your trip, that is the forecast the operators are using when they decide whether to sail. If in doubt, call your operator; they read this water every day.

The short version

Aim for a summer day with swell under about 1.5 m and wind under about 15 knots. Cross before the afternoon nortada, but if the morning is foggy, a late-morning boat is often the sweet spot. Match the tide to what you most want to see, and always re-check the morning you go.

← Tutta la rivista